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June 2019

01 June 2019

Waking to a cool morning it took a little time for the sun to make its presence felt. We packed up and headed off towards Windorah some 130 km's away. We were heading for a spot on the Cooper just out of town and were hoping that it would not be packed out.

The whole trip in showed the greenery that comes after rain in these parched lands, and the greenery just got deeper and deeper the closer we got to Coopers Creek. Tributaries and creeks had all overflowed at some stage, bringing so much life to the place it was like another planet.

Arriving at the creek we crossed the bridge over the creek and turned in to follow the track looking for a campsite, eventually getting to the end and turning back a few hundred yards to set up in the sun and with a view of the river right outside of our door.

So after lunch it was time to get the drone in the air and to get a few shots and some video of our campsite for the next few days. Flying was certainly a challenge with the amount of flies around all trying to get in your eyes and ears!

Our spot on the Cooper.

Looking back towards the bridge and further on towards Windorah.

Despite the recent rain and flood, the ground is still cracked in parts.

The belt of venus in the sky as the day draws to an end.

Having deciding to put together some Photography Video Blogs, or vlogs as they are known, this was a great place to make a second one which can be found here, the first being back in Morven at Sadleirs Lagoon. You can view both video's on my Youtube Channel, here. The

The track to today's camp is here.

4 June 2019

Our camp on The Cooper has been a great one with warmish sunny days but cool, clear skies at night. The birdsong and peace and quiet just exquisite and most enjoyable. But as good as it has been, after three days there, it was time to move. We packed up and headed into town, less than 10 km's away. First stop was the dump point and the second was in town for fuel. But, the fuel truck hadn't got there yet from Quilpie and there was no diesel in town. Never mind, we'll go back tomorrow after the truck, and the rush has been.

We stopped in to the new section of the caravan park and found a spot, setting up and settling in. For $15 a night with nice new amenities, laundry, power, water, and a grey water trap the new part is good value for money. The old, existing caravan park is across the road, and has tree's for shade, the only thing lacking over here in the new part. But who want's shade at this time of the year!

Of course the washing machine got a fair workout and other tasks were completed as the cool Southerly wind blew, robbing the day of warmth.

The sunset from just near our campsite.

The huge long track for today can be found here.

05 June 2019

Despite the number of rigs in, last night was very quiet and we awoke to the sound of people's heaters going on what was quite a cool morning. With the fuel truck arriving last night we left it to this morning to get fuel, hoping that any sediment from the fill would have settled by now. We topped up the tank and filled jerry can of insurance. With fuel here at $1.87 a litre and allegedly being over $2 a litre in Bedourie it is not going to be a cheap trip. But as we often say "we want it, they have it, we pay".

Topped up with fuel we made our way out of town with a strong tailwind through open country and flanked by sand dunes, some of which you can go onto a property to see and drive amongst just 6 kilometres out of town. We had wanted to get some shots of sand dunes but figured the tourist ones would be a mass of footprints, so we kept going until we came to a set of dunes we know of about 20km's out of town, and about a kilometre off the road.

With a very strong, cold wind blowing the drone came out to save some walking, and was sent off to explore the dunes. Battling the wind meant the flight time was going to be reduced and so it was a case of getting some video footage, scouting some stills, getting them and then getting back before the 30 minutes of flight time normally available was exhausted.

Atop one part of the dune looking back to the road.

Looking back towards Windorah

A little closer to the dune to get some more detail.

Looking back at the footage and stills later on in the day we should have stayed another day in Windorah and come out here for a more serious photography session and of course a video blog, but we didn't, so maybe next time.

Moving on we made good progress passing along the single lane bitumen road which apart from a couple of oncoming vehicles we had to ourselves. Crossing many small creeks and passing many small waterhole's among the green land was very pleasant as we skirted the Northern edge of the Sturt Stony Desert. Nice orange sand dunes were covered with green bushes making for quite a contrast as we went.

Pulling into the site of what was the JC Hotel we stopped for a look at where the pub come Post Office used to be before heading out the back to wander around the old cemetery. Starting off as a pub and turning into a small settlement the Post Master General insisted on a name change when the Receival's Office became a Post Office, and so JC was named Canterbury until it all started to fall apart. The hotel eventually being bought and closed by a local grazier as a way of stopping his staff spending all their money at the pub. Of course the town didn't survive and neither did the pub.

Passing the North-South Gas Line Terminus near the turn off to Birdsville we were passing large open plains until we came to Farars Creek and the numerous small off shoots meant there was a very large green area in the desert. Brolga's wandering along the side of the road as we passed were not fazed by us at all. It might have made for a great camp spot too, if we could have got off the road and not bogged.

Eventually stopping about 70 km's short of the Monkira Station Rest Area near what is a large Mesa outcrop which we we think is Round Mountain, we found ourselves a nice spot off the road and settled in behind some small shrubs to shield us somewhat from the wind.

Our campsite behind the tree's out of the wind.

Today's track can be found here.

06 June 2019

The wind finally abated after sundown and a very noisy quiet descended upon the desert. A look outside before bed showed we were again sleeping under a gazillion star sky, and had it not been for the cold, and the milky way not in the right place, some astro photography would have been on the cards. But a warm comfortable bed won out.

We spent a very peaceful night in our little camp spot and got up to launch the drone for some early morning light shots of the Mesa, and hopefully before the wind decided to get up.

First light on the Mesa.

A short video blog and a regular camera shot completed it was time for a warm breakfast before we got on the road. Once again we had the road to ourselves and, despite airing down just in case, the road was very smooth and easy to drive on, and made easier by a following wind.

Not long after passing some sand dunes that were close to the road, and around 70 kilometres after we had started, we came to the Diamantina River and it's many tributaries, some still with small waterhole's. The place was greener than the last time we had seen it courtesy of the flood that had come through, and birdlife was abundant. Debris in tree's showing that there was a couple of metres worth of water that had come through and a grader was working hard to repair the roadway. We stopped for a look but with the cold wind howling it was not going to be a camera or drone photograph.

Crossing the final arm of the Diamantina we arrived at Monkira Station and the rest area that is almost opposite the station gate, both of which sit on the high side of the floodwaters. Having camped there before we knew it would have been horrendous in the wind yesterday and so we were glad we didn't push on to get there. Monkira had cattle in the yards and they were obviously mustering.

We continued on enjoying the warm sunshine through the windows. Coming to some roadwork's we passed through the workings and continued along on a very smooth, easy piece of road that went for quite a while, including past more gibber plain with it's shiny black surface and moon like landscape. We stopped to launch the drone for a few shots and to try a short video flying around the stark plain.

Looking back across the Gibber Plain.

It wasn't long before we arrived at the Nayna Creek and today's intended campsite. The creek was dry as was the surrounding area, and it looks like it hasn't seen rain for sometime. The many friendly zebra finches were all over the place, but they were definitely outnumbered by the flies!

The last time we were here we had rain overnight and ended up making a dash for the bitumen and eventually Bedourie, some 70 kilometres later. So this time the clear skies and forecast should mean we can have an easy trip into Bedourie tomorrow.

Today's track can be found here.

07 June 2019

Not having seen much traffic over the past day or two, yesterday afternoon and over night seemed to make up for it with quite a few vehicles passing us.

We awoke to another clear sky and cold morning, the sun breaking through some cloud on the horizon not long after it got up. The last time we woke up here, some 3 years ago, it was very wet and required a dash along some very wet, muddy road to get to the bitumen. No such troubles this time as the road was bone dry and a very nice gravel one at that.

Stopping for a look at a potential campsite some 20 kilometres from Bedourie at the old King River Crossing we found three caravans all parked up. We drove through and made some mental notes about the place, especially the one about not being there when it was wet! The Road SOuth to Birdsville was closed at this junction so it is just as well we weren't going that way.

Heading on towards Bedourie itself we crossed the large sand dune that protects the town from the South and entered the main street. Having previously stopped and put the two jerry can's worth of fuel into the tank so as to limit the cost of $1.99 a litre when filling up in town we topped up the fuel, visited the tourist info centre, discussed staying at the cheap caravan park opposite the roadhouse (which we decided not to do) and then catching up on all things Internet, we made our way out of town.

The road runs parallel to the sand dunes here and then starts to cross them as it changes direction. Out into open ground again we could see the greenery that had come up from the rain, and one long, large area with water, lush greenery and one heap of cattle was there where the land backed up to the last sand dune.

More open flat country with less greenery and more of that gibber plain scenery was now everywhere around us, and the only green parts were the areas around the small channels that we were crossing and where the birdlife was in abundance.

The flat land began to give way to a small range and we eventually turned up the track to the Vaughn Johnson Lookout. The short sharp climb registered 7.9% on the HEMA Navigator which also required third gear to get up.

Once on the top, like the last time we were here, the views went for miles, this time with much more of a green tinge. With nobody else up there we found ourselves a nice spot and settled in once the gazillion flies that were up there, despite the strong wind, had welcomed us to their banquet.

Today's track can be found here.

08 June 2019

It's interesting how things pan out sometimes. We often say we should call ourselves "Subject to Change" and that is how it was this morning. After a peaceful night alone at the lookout we awoke to a cloud covered sky and just a hint of some clear sky right on the horizon.

Joanne went for a look out over the land and then came back to declare that she thought we should go to Lake Machattie. Well, that decision meant we had to return to Bedourie, top up with fuel and then head South partly by the road we had come in on, thanks to a detour on the Birdsville Track.

The closer we got to Bedourie the clearer the sky became, and by the time we got there it was almost totally clear. We topped up with fuel, did the Internet thing and then headed out of town, stopping only to air down at the gravel road. Stopping also allowed the four tripple cattle trucks ahead of us to get well out in front.

Before long we were turning off to head South on the Lake Machattie or Bedourie Flood Detour Road. A good gravel road that took us through some moonscape and then in between the sand dunes as we made our way South.

Joanne had spied a camp spot marker on wikicamps at the lake and so when we got there we took the track in towards the lake, arriving about a kilometre from the road. A water tank and cattle trough were the only things there, and apart from the gazillion flies, we had the place to ourselves.

Our lakeside campsite.

We set up camp before having a look around and giving the drone a flight or two around the shore and over the lake. One lone tree out in the lake caught my eye and so it became the subject of the photography for today.

The lone tree shot taken from the drone.

Thought I'd try a Black and White shot for something different.

So after some flight time it was time to get ready for sunset and the scene didn't disappoint, firstly with the colour and secondly with the ambiance, except for the flies.

The start of the sunset.

The tree up close near sunset.

And the colour continues.

Today's track can be found here.

09 June 2019

So after such a beautiful sunset we spent a very quiet night beside the lake. A look outside around 4am showed the milky way in a good position over the lake, but a warm bed was more inviting, so the lazy person remained in bed. But, when we did wake up, the whole place was covered in fog!

Fog photography was the order of the morning but it cleared quite quickly.

So after the fog photography was completed it was time for breakfast and to watch Insiders. We then packed up and took the 1.8 kilometres along the track out to the road. Instead of turning left towards Bedourie we turned right and took the 28 remaining kilometres to the main Birdsville Track, hoping it would be open again, but no.

Turning around we made our way back the way we had come and then continued on back to Bedourie, but not without stopping to launch the drone and to get some shots around the Cluney Station and the sand dunes and waterhole's left from the flood.

Cluney Homestead on the right near the river and the waterhole's to the left.

We were going to stay at the junction of the road into Bedourie and the Birdsville Track, but in the end decided to head into town and enjoy a $15 a night stop at the roadhouse caravan park. With power, water and an en-suite, $15 is a good deal.

Today's track can be found here.

14 June 2019

Heading out of Bedourie along our back tracked road was fairly ho hum, until we got past the lookout where we had camped only a few nights ago. From there it was a short trip to the Georgina River where having passed the rest area thinking there was another, we had to backtrack again for about 5 kilometres until we pulled into an overgrown rest area. The place was green and over grown thanks to the flood that had come through here, but it was fine for us.

Not long after settling in a road grader drove in and started to grade the rest area, including right next to us. Thankfully there was not that much wind and so not much dust. The driver widened where we were parked and scraped clear some other parts including a nice spot down near the river itself.

Today's track can be found here.

Apart from the birdlife and the occasional vehicle going past, we spent a very peaceful afternoon and night and then left the next morning, passing some roadwork's on the way and eventually coming into the White Tree country around Boulia, stopping of course for photo's and a vlog. We also passed the Boulia Waddi Tree's which, similar to those at Old Andado, grow very sparsely around in the desert, and are supposed to be a throw back to the ago of the dinosaurs.

The first of many white tree photo's.

We arrived in Boulia and, after a brief stop at the tourist information centre to enquire about going out to the Diamantina Lakes National PArk, we made our way just out of town to the racecourse reserve to find a campsite for a few days. Pulling into what should be called the river reserve, because it is an over flow area, we found a spot and settled in not far from a couple by the names of Viv and Kaylene.

The Bourke River and our campsite on the left hand side.

Spending some time with Viv, Kaylene and Sharon, a lady on her own, at happy hour was pleasant and before long it was time for food and to settle in for the evening.

Even with a few others that had come in, the night passed quietly and then after a lazy rise, it was time to head into town for fuel ($1.679), to do the washing and to check out the supermarket and the local craft, souvenir and photographers shop before heading back to camp.

Back at camp it was time to wander around to check out the river, and to get some photo's of the beautiful white gum's, green grass and soft yellow light of the morning before lunch.

The track to Boulia can be found here. Of course we forgot to continue recording when we left town to head out to the camp so it is not quite correct but if you zoom in on the map and find the racecourse on the town common, you will see where we are camped between the racecourse and the river.

15 June 2019

Having enjoyed the company of Viv, Kaylene, Sharon and the camp at Boulia we decided to move on today, but not before some chores in town. Dump point and wash down were the first two tasks. The wash down was at the weed and seed wash down and after driving in we used the nice warm artesian water to wash a few millimetres of red dust off of the whole rig so that we could put some more back on later today. Then it was fuel and food before heading out of town.

Turning off onto the Donohue Highway towards Alice Springs we almost stopped at the creek just after the turnoff, and where we have camped before, so nice was the look of the spot.

Enjoying the bitumen and views of the open pastoral land, small mesa's and red dirt hills for some time before the track opened right up to just flat open grassland which stretched all the way to the horizon. Dodging a few cattle standing on the road, and heading towards darker skies as we went. Looking back in the mirror showed the light coloured dust plume we were leaving contrasted totally against the dark sky.

The Donohue Highway Bitumen - nice.

The bitumen ended and we crossed the Georgina River on a bumpy but good 3 kilometre stretch of dirt road. The river still had some water in it and with a camper trailer set up, we could have joined them for the night. But with 800 kilometres to Alice Springs we were keen to cover a few hundred a day and so pressed on. Our last trip across here was from the opposite direction and being hot, we enjoyed the air conditioning in the ute and subsequently covered the distance in two days!

The dirt, and open plain as far as the eye can see.

Just before 1pm, and with our bellies grumbling, we spied a large borrow pit on the side of the road. Turning around we went back and decided that 195 kilometres for the day was enough, and so set up camp among the short tree's of this part of the desert. Of course the drone and the camera got a work out, especially at sunset.

Grabbing a shot.

Aerial and Ground based photography made for an interesting combination.

The shot.

A different approach to getting a shot.

The belt of venus behind the tree and the moon above.

Our camp at sunset.

Today's track can be found here.

16 June 2019

The sun was just above the horizon as the sun came up last night and an almost a full moon illuminated the camp for some time into the night. Tucked up warm and comfortable we were oblivious to the world until we heard the pitter patter of rain on the roof. As day break came it was raining some more and a look outside revealed the a very dark sky with just a sliver of light underneath on the horizon.

Being on a clay base we decided to move closer to the road and onto firmer, limestone ground just in case, and once moved the rain eased (of course) and so it was time for some more photography, drone work, and of course eggs and bacon for breakfast.

Our rig lit up like the early morning sky after moving to safer ground.

The sky looked for while like it might light right up and so patiently waiting near a tree it was disappointing when it didn't. But as the day lightened the weather began to break. Low white cloud skimmed across the sky as the higher cloud became darker making for an interesting scene.

The cloud was changing all the time, and the lower white cloud was moving at quite a rate.

Looking from whence we came yesterday.

Looking to where we are going.

Once on the road we were enjoying the reasonable road conditions as we passed through ever changing scenery. Open plain one minute, tree's the next. Cattle on the road just wanted to stand there and make a nuisance of themselves until they failed to pass the chicken test and took off, and not always in the direction you might think.

Pulling up behind a caravan outside of the Tobermorey Station entrance we told them about the water marks along the road that may have been coming from them since they passed us over 20 kilometres before while we were stopped for a photo. They thanked us and checked their rig as we continued on. They tooted their horn later on as they passed us after we had set up camp. Tobermorey is also the station Viv and Kaylene were going to as Viv had just got a job as the grader driver.

The road condition after Tobermorey changed for the worse and the river crossing was definitely in need of some grader work after the recent floods. All the while the sky was getting darker and darker ahead of us and then we ran into the rain, and the rig instantly became heavier with the mud that was starting to accumulate under and over it. The road in general was good but with water lying around in the lower, clay parts. Then, after about 5 kilometres we came out to a clearing sky and sunshine.

Not having any particular schedule we were again just going to find somewhere along the road for tonight's camp, but when we came to the limestone rocky outcrop about 120 km's into the day that Joanne had found on wikicamps, we decided that that view just had to be enjoyed. Looking out across the trees and landscape from our elevated campsite we look towards Mt Poziers and the Simpson Desert on one side of the road and the Barkley Tableland on the other.

Numerous vehicles have been going past us in both directions since we stopped here just before lunch. With no phone signal out here we sent family messages via our satellite phone, enjoyed the view, scraped some of the mud off the rig, checked for damage, fought the hoards of flies whenever we went outside (such as to empty a jerry can into the tank), and watched TV as the wind blew from the South East and the sunshine kept the temperature around 21 degrees.

Today's track can be found here.

17 June 2019

Not long before sundown two caravans passed our campsite and slowed to a stop, turned around and came in on another track and ended up camping not far from us, so we had company for the night.

We were up before the sun this morning and after breakfast and getting packed up, we hit the road and continued on our way. The road was reasonable until we came to a spot on wikicamps that said the road was rough, but it was graded, and then we came to the spot where wikicamps said there was bad bulldust. Well, there wasn't much bulldust because it was damp, but the road then got worse. Roadwork's at one stage forced us onto a chicken track detour for some kilometres, but we didn't mind because they were fixing something we would have had to drive through.

Traffic was generally quiet today after yesterdays rush heading East, but there was still the odd moron who didn't want to slow down. Thankfully the wind was in our favour so they had to drive through our dust trail. Rocky gravel one minute, hard red dirt or sand the next, the road had all sorts of machinations today.

Part of the Red Sandy Road

Passing the rocky outcrops where we camped last time we came through before crossing the dry, but deep and rocky Algamba Creek. Passing three range view at the Anatye Aboriginal Land we eventually arrived at Arthur River. Pulling in we found two campers packing up after staying the night. The ground around the dry river is very green and lush and the tree's large and plentiful.

Termite Mounds then began to appear in the very red, sandy soil, including one that was a good 12 feet high as we made our way towards Jervois Station where we filled up with fuel 60 litres of fuel at $2.05 a litre before heading outside their gate and over to the rest area on the banks of the very dry Marshall River for morning tea.

Varying road conditions until we came to the Plenty River, a wide, dry, sandy affair with lots of large tree's all the way down it. Smaller ranges and then Harts Range was along the left hand side for some time. Stopping on the corner of Binn's Track which would have taken us up to where we joined it two years ago on our way to Old Andado for a comfort stop before we came to another chicken track for yet more roadwork's, this time though they were preparing it for bitumen, which now extends all the way out to Harts Range from the Stuart Highway.

Passing the entrance road to the Harts Range Community we arrived at the Police Station and Airstrip.

The Harts Range Police Station back in 2017. Now, all the tree's have been removed.

Finding a spot to park to air the tyres back up, to have a late lunch and to check the emails for the first time since Boulia. Then, another 40 kilometres on we found a large gravel pit at the Western end of Harts Range, pulled in and set up camp.

Harts Range looking East and back to where we came from.

Our campsite.

WHile the drone was up a 4x4 pulled in and after a short chat they found themselves a place to pull out the awning and set up a tent next to it under it's own awning.

Today's track can be found here.

18 June 2019

The night was a cold but peaceful one under a full moon and we awoke to clear skies. Breakfast and pack up done we were heading for the Stuart Highway, and it seemed that once the wide bitumen ran out to a narrow strip, half of the campers in Alice Springs were heading the opposite direction. A convoy of 4x4's came into view and they all pulled over to let us stay on the tar. Nice to see the unwritten rule of the bigger rig staying on the tar was being followed.

We passed the Gem Tree Caravan Park and Fossicking area and the Binn's Track Southern turnoff before turning left at the main highway junction some 30 kilometres later. It was then a short hop into Alice Springs where we filled up with fuel before the price goes up for the school holidays and then made our way to the showgrounds for the next couple of days.

Today's track can be found here.

22 June 2019

Our visit to Alice Springs was a busy but productive one, and the showgrounds was the perfect place to do it from. Heading back and forth through The Gap was a pleasant experience with the road, railway and river all squeezing through the gap in the red rock of the centre.

Shopping, some repairs, washing the ute and preparing for the Tanami were the order of the day, and on the final morning we pulled out of the showgrounds, made our way to and squeezed into the carwash to give the house a good wash before stopping to get an additional jerry can at Supercheap Auto. Then, after topping up the tank and filling the jerry can with insurance fuel, we headed out of town.

Turning off the highway and onto the Tanami Road we stopped for the obligatory photo's and continued on our way, relishing the bitumen for 200 kilometres before the dirt starts again.

Getting the obligatory photo.

Passing large rocky hills of the McDonald Range and not unlike those around Mt Isa and even in the Pilbara we had the road all to ourselves and even aided by a tailwind!

Crossing the Tropic of Capricorn the bitumen was mostly double lane, but old parts were still single, narrow lane. The land changed and continually swapped between open and bush land.

The further we went the more we came across small rock areas that looked like pimples on the surface of the earth and so it was inevitable that we would end up stopping for some aerial photography, the first not far from Tilmouth Well, our first fuel stop.

Typical scenery around Tilmouth Well.

More of the same, just closer.

Stopping at the Tilmouth Well Roadhouse we topped up with fuel ($1.99 per litre) and had lunch before heading on some more. Coming to a range where the road cut through we stopped to admire and photograph Stuart's Bluff which was so long we had to capture it in two panorama's.

Stuart's Bluff looking South East.

Stuart's Bluff looking North West.

Our day's travel came to an end when we stopped at Smiths Gift Bore, a large gravel and dirt area opposite the Yuelamu Community turnoff. Setting up where we felt comfortable it was time for some aerial reconnaissance and settling in.

Our track can be found here.

A pleasant and quiet night ensued and we awoke to a cool morning and after leaving enjoyed more of the same as the day before until we were falling off the bitumen about 10 km's before Yuendumu, our next stop. The corrugations were quite bad even after stopping to air down and so it was a slow trip to the community turnoff.

A short kilometre long bitumen road into town was a pleasant relief from the corrugations. We did a bit of a tour under the guise of finding one of the three fuel stops mentioned in the Fuel Spy and Fuel Map apps. The whole place is a typical aboriginal community. Run down houses, wrecked cars, dogs, litter about a foot high against every wire fence and yards full of rubbish and whatever. We eventually stopped at the Community Store and were pleasantly surprised to find backpackers serving and working in the well stocked store. Topping up with fuel ($2.20 per litre) we pulled over near the school yard and attended to things Internet before heading out of town and heading on our way.

Corrugations were still bad for about 5 kilometres and then we came to two graders working. Smooth wide road was a pleasure to drive on and definitely easier on the rig but the further we went the more normal dirt road complete with patches of corrugations and things to dodge.

Seeing this from the road we just had to stop so I could get this shot.

Having walked over this to get the shot before, it wasn't until the camera was airborne that I noticed this tree shaped creek.

Not far from the previous stop was this large rocky outcrop about a kilometre from the road. Of course the flying camera was launched for a closer look. Mt Doreen, named after the wife of the Mt Doreen station owner can be seen in the background.

Large Rocky Outcrop with Mt Doreen in the background.

Mt Doreen can be seen out the back in the middle.

Finding the turnoff to Mt Doreen itself we made our way in off the road, over the Tanami Gas Pipeline until about a kilometre we came to where the station buildings used to be. Now just a collection of concrete slabs, rubbish, old vehicles and half a nissan hut. Passing them and onto where the dam was we found a spot and pulled up for the day. Wolfram hill where there were a number of old mines, and the ruins of a stone building at the base was not far from us.

The stone building and Wolfram Hill.

It's amazing what you see when you are flying around. These bushes and their shadows on the road side of the hill made for an interesting shot which just had to be taken.

Of course some photography was conducted.

The sun lights up the range behind to old building as the belt of venus starts to form.

By the time darkness fell three other campers had come in. One set up not far behind us and the other two not far from the stone building.

Our track can be found here.

Another coolish morning and we were the first to break camp, heading out the same way we came in and onto the main road. He scenery as pretty much the same except we were seeing termite mounds appearing, so just had to stop and get an aerial perspective.

Termite city and highway ;-)

Leaving the termites to their building we crossed many more floodways and plains and general bush and eventually stopped for a vehicle check and morning tea at Renahan's Bore and 24 hr rest area. Not an inspiring sort of a place but would do for a camp if need be. The concrete water tank barely gave a dribble when the tap was opened, but it was enough to fill the old frying pan underneath to give the spinifex pigeons a drink.

More open plains and then a pleasant 10 km's of bitumen before we were back on the hard sand again, and this time the views were of huge termite mounds, definitely large high rise buildings, and just as we came into some bush land again Joanne spotted two camels off the side of the road, both of which kept one eye on us as we stopped for a look.

Passing Grimwade Ridge on the left we eventually neared and passed the Granites Gold Mine and airstrip, our mobile phones going off to let us know we had range, and messages.

9km's on we came to Quartz Hill and according to wikicamps, a good camping spot. We took the short dirt road in and climbed to the top of the ridge to survey all around us. Dropping back down the other side was interesting as the van wanted to push us faster than we wanted to go, but with come careful driving we were back down the bottom safely. Picking a spot it was time to get the camera into the air and to work on some still photo's as well.

Our spot behind Quartz Hill. The Granites Gold Mine is just visible near the horizon.

A slightly closer view.

Sunset from atop Quartz Hill.

Our Track to Quartz Hill can be found here.

23 June 2019

Overnight was cool but with clear skies and three other campers in with us.

We awoke to a nice day, but a strong wind. Having decided to try get a first light photo up on the top of the ridge it was a case of rug up and head up to capture some shots before before coming back down for a cooked breakfast.

First light at Quartz Hill.

Sunrise.

We then spent a relaxing day to put the photography vlog of the last few days together (https://youtu.be/D48yMYWZyVM) and generally enjoying a day off.

 

24 June 2019

After an easy day off we were back on the road this morning, but not before two of the other campers had come over to see if we were alright. They claimed they had not seen anyone and no lights last night so thought they had better check. Having done the same ourselves it is nice to know others are looking out for us as well.

We were first to break camp and the corrugations were there to meet us as we started on the main road. Despite our tyre pressures being down at 24 psi, and our speed no higher than 75km/h, much of the day was spent riding with the passenger side of the rig up on the bank or the road, or near it to lessen the impact of the corrugations.

Not long after we started we came to the now closed Rabbit Flat Roadhouse, the track in blocked and all signs removed if it wasn't for the Hema Navigator and our Hema Ma, we wouldn't have known it was there. Had it have been operating we would have stopped there for a fuel top up as we would not have needed to carry as much fuel.

From Rabbit Flat there was not much to mention. We stopped for a look at the intersection (and rubbish pile spread all over the place) to the road to Supplejack Downs, a recent Backroads story on the ABC and then continued on.

The road deteriorated as we approached the Tanami Mine area and with all access blocked we couldn't get to the Tanami Rockhole, or even Mt Tanami. A few kilometres later however we descended the slight descent in elevation that is the Tanami Range and stopped at a nice camping spot to put the drone up for a look, despite the strong wind that was blowing.

Looking back over the Tanami Range and from where we had come.

Another view backwards.

Looking West, and to where we are heading.

More of the same from here really until we came to a large borrow pit not far from the WA Border that Joanne had found on wikicamps. We turned in and checked the place out and decided to call it quits for the day, and a bit later on, someone else had the same idea as a caravan came in and parked closer to the road.

Today's track can be found here.

25 June 2019

Back on the road proper for another day on the Tanami, we immediately came to a belt of beautiful white ghost gums which really stood out against the red dirt in the morning light.

Approaching the WA Border, which if we didn't have the Hema Navigator going would have passed with not even being noticed the only proper marker being a 44 gallon drum painted white with a blue line down the middle and WA on one side and NT on the other.

Really rough road until after the Coyote Gold Mine meant a slow pace and then we came to where a grader was working, and we enjoyed his work from the week and from then on for some time.

Large light red hills lit by the sun were appearing on the left hand side as we approached the Selby Hills and the turnoff to the Balgo Aboriginal Community and where a large pink 4 wheel drive wreck attracted our attention to the sign.

Balgo Pink 4x4 sign

The road was still problematic but sand dunes and spinifex started to appear again and then the rocky outcrop of Elsey Hill was not far away and was where we managed to get a couple of bars on the phone which was enough to check emails etc while stopped on the hill. Sandy terrain and road continued until we came to some bitumen through a floodway and where we were back in amongst the white ghost gums. Driving along the drain because of the corrugations it was not long before we were at Stuart Creek, which runs into Lake Gregory. We turned off just after the creek and after negotiating an interesting entry, found a spot not far from Stuart's Waterhole, which turned out to be nothing more than puddle, but one that is popular with the cattle and the birds.

Putting the drone up it became apparent that we were not far from the Aboriginal Community of Billiluna, and the start of the Canning Stock Route. With only Optus mobile we were without research ability because we have Telstra. Maybe we will go into the community and see what we can find out about going to Stretch Lagoon on the Canning Stock Route, or maybe we will continue on towards Wolfe Creek Meteor Crater.

Today's track can be found here.

26 June 2019

Being on a different time zone has meant we are both waking up early, and this morning was no exception. A look out of the roof hatch showed the belt of venus over the top of the white trees and so a photo had to be taken.

The BOV (Belt of Venus) over the white trees of Stuart Creek.

After a cooked breakfast it was time to pack up and head off, but not before we got ourselves back out through the dip and out onto the road.

Once back out on the Tanami Track we passed the resisted the temptation of going into the community and to see about going to Stretch Lagoon (we figured we will do that when we do the Canning Stock Route). The road was the typical corrugated dirt that we had seen for many kilometres now.

We didn't have far to go as we were heading for the Wolfe Creek Meteorite Crater. Opening the gate to get in we were passing through Carrinya Station. The road was fabulously smooth and well prepared, for the first five kilometres and then, then the further we went the worse and worse the corrugations became and for the next 13 kilometres it was just plain uncomfortable and no matter what speed we did, or where on the road we drove, it was bad!

We arrived at the actual Wolfe Creek, and after crossing the dry creek bed came to another gate and the now abandoned and derelict Carrinya Homestead. Rather than stopping for a look we decided to do that on the way out and persevered with even worse corrugations for the next 8 kilometres to another gate where we entered the Wolfe Creek National Park itself. The road improved slightly which is most unusual for a National Park and we passed the camping area to stop at the crater car park about half a kilometre later. We stopped to read the information boards and then took the short walk to the top of the crater and then made our way back to the camping area.

Being first to set up we had the pick of the sites, and couldn't figure out why wikicamps said it was as full as Sydney. Later on however, we found out what they were talking about. Caravan, after campertrailer, after 4 wheel drive with a roof top tent or swags came in all afternoon, and by 4pm there was not a spare camping spot to be had. Some even tripple parked and camped just to get a spot. Of course sunset photo's were the goal and by the time I got back to camp the place was in full swing.

The Belt of Venus over the Wolfe Creek Crater at Sunset.

Today's track can be found here.

27 June 2019

Thankfully everyone was well behaved last night and a peaceful night ensued, until that is, we started our engine and drove up to the crater to get some sunrise photo's. For once we were the one's waking everyone up in the morning.

Photo's along the crater rim were the order of the day, and the wind was bitterly cold along, but then, after saying I wasn't going down there, I clambered down to the bottom to meet Joanne who had gone down there earlier, and with no wind down there it was quite a balmy morning. We got some photos and then walked out into the middle which was actually salt encrusted where the rest had been sand, and where someone had a fire to mark the centre.

The sun is rising over the crater

The sun coming over the lip of the crater.

Back from our morning exercise and photographic expedition we enjoyed breakfast and then, rather than staying another day, decided to move on to a gravel pit not far from Halls Creek. We packed up as a station helicopter flew over head checking the place out, and before long we were back out onto the corrugation highway to destruction. We tried all sorts of methods to deal with the teeth chattering corrugations and nothing but a 15-20 kilometre an hour speed did anything to raise the comfort level to negate any possible damage.

We arrived at the now abandoned Carrinya to find the helicopter mustering some cattle into a race, but not before we had managed to get out of the way and through the gate again. The chopper pilot skimming the tops of the trees as he rounded the cattle up again.

We continued to battle the corrugations and but the good news was that the further we went the better the road became, and eventually we came to that smooth as silk 5 kilometre stretch and could relax while commiserating with the drivers going the other way.

Back on the Tanami Track again we passed through more of the same type of bush, open plain, trees that we had been for some days until we came to the boundary of the Ruby Plain's Station, the sign proudly displaying that it was part of the Kidman empire, now owned by Gina Rhine hart and her Chinese partners. It was here that we came upon many ranges and mesa's, all covered with spinifex and red rock, so much like the Kimberley and even parts of the Pilbara. Large termite mounds rose up from the spinifex like markers and were even halfway up the escarpments. The views were wonderful, but the road not so.

Stopping at a large natural rock wall it was time to get the camera out again before we started to look for a camp. The roadwork's and grading had changed a few things and so we ended up taking a bush track for a look, but decided against the location and moved on. We even stopped in a large borrow pit for lunch and were going to camp there, but changed our minds and moved on, heading this time for Old Halls Creek.

The rock wall and surrounds

Back on the bitumen and with a mere 19 kilometres to Halls Creek we had completed another of Australia's iconic roads, The Tanami Track. It was kind of different being on the bitumen and almost as strange to be driving through a town, entering and then departing Halls Creek we took the Duncan Road and made our way out to the site and remains of the original Halls Creek, passing through some stunning scenery, but being too tired to stop and admire it.

Arriving at the site of the old town there was not much to be seen, so we entered the gate to 'The Lodge' and took up residence in the caravan park. $10 a day for power (4pm to 8pm daily), water (mineralised bore water), hot, unisex showers and toilets, an friendly owners and campers, most of which are here for the gold detecting. Some mobile signal is here, but, it is so slow for Internet and a carrier pigeon would be quicker.

We spoke to the neighbours as we settled in, then enjoyed a nice hot shower and generally started to relax and unwind from The Tanami.

Today's track can be found here.

28 June 2019

Today was a day off and the chance to go back into town for fuel, shopping, Internet etc before we made our way back to camp via Caroline Pool. The rockface etc was nice but someone had let the plug out and the pool was almost empty.

Back at camp we got some chores done and come photos before joining most, if not all of the other campers at the evening get together and BBQ, which was very pleasant.

29 June 2019

Today was a chance to go exploring without the house on the back and so we took a trip along the Duncan Road which is basically the back way from Halls Creek to Kununurra. This mostly rocky road cuts through some of the best Kimberley scenery that we have ever seen and the only things missing were the Boab Trees.

A typical Duncan Road scene.

The further we went the better it got and then we rounded a bend atop a small hill and could see this large range ahead of us out in the distance, and, a cutting further around that looked like it would have a water feature in a gorge.

We soon arrived at Palm Springs where some people were camped. Figuring we would see it on the way back we kept going, also passing the turnoff to Sawpit Gorge, something else to explore on the way back.

Arriving at the Albert Edward Range we launched the drone for some video of us passing through the cutting and for some still shots and panoramas'. Then it was time to head back to see what Sawpit Gorge had to offer.

The Albert Edward Range on the Duncan Road between Kununurra and Halls Creek.

Looking back through the range to where we had come from.

Looking through the range towards Kununurra.

Turning off the Duncan Road we were on a narrow one vehicle track as it wound its way through the countryside. A large rock outcrop caught our eye as did the large termite mounds that had a front row seat to a beautiful range behind them. We pulled in and found a spot to park before giving the camera some exercise.

Termite mounds and view on the track to Sawpit Gorge.

Up hill, down dale and round corner we eventually pulled up in the carpark of Sawpit Gorge. The most beautiful white trees contrasted against the red rock of the face behind them and we had it all to ourselves.

The view at the carpark and the track to the creek itself.

Joanne took a walk down the track into the creek itself while I got some photo's at the top and then it was time to drive down through the narrow opening full of bulldust to the creek bed where another world opened up. Camera and drone got some work there, it was such a beautiful spot.

Reluctantly leaving the gorge we made our way back to the Duncan Road and after a short trip stopped for a look at Palm Springs, a veritable oasis in the desert.

Chatting with a family we found out that the pool was in fact fed by a spring and that there were fresh water croc's over in the river proper not far from the pool and the campsite. The kids were fishing and swimming and totally enjoying themselves, and if they hadn't been there it would have made another great photo opportunity.

Leaving the families to their fun we made our way back to cam, but not before launching the drone again to fly about a kilometre off the road for a shot and video of the China Wall.

The China Wall.

Making our way back to camp in time for a late lunch we got some tasks done and began planning our departure tomorrow.

Today's track can be found here.

30 June 2019

So another month ends, and we hit the road again. After stopping for a few days at Old Halls Creek we made our way into town and after a top up fuelling, made our way South to Mary Pool, spotting an old cycling camp spot at Walkers Bore, where we had been exactly sixteen years and one day ago, and the old windmill was still going.

Crossing the dry Mary River we pulled in to the site on the new entry and found plenty of others in and around the toilets and trees. We opted for a spot along the dry riverbed on the way in and after a little bit of leveling off, settled in, entertained by the almost constant flow of rigs coming in, and some going out.

But that was about as good as it got. Our fridge was struggling and only running for about 5 minutes at a time and so the temperature inside was rising. To make matters worse the thing could be switched on by pressing around, not on, the on/off button. Well there was a decision to be made here with what to do. There were fridge people in both Broome, and Kununurra.

Our track can be found here.

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Mark Twain once said "...years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do that by the things you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - and so we will.

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